Devilishly Good Chicken!

Foods that are highly seasoned (e.g., mustard, chilies, etc.) or sinfully rich (e.g., chocolate cake) have been referred to as "deviled" since the 18th century. In 1868, The William Underwood Company began selling a mixture of ground ham with seasonings which they named "deviled ham." In fact, their devil logo is one of the oldest trademarked logo still in use today. While I love highly seasoned food, canned ham is not my kind of thing. Trust me. I used to audit food processing plants (like Ballpark Franks), haven't eaten one since!

The original Underwood Deviled Ham logo.

With Halloween almost here, I want to share this wickedly addictive recipe from Williams-Sonoma for "Chicken Thighs Diavolo." Diavolo means devil in Italian, but only dishes invented by Italian-Americans use the term. In Italy, they would refer to a spicy dish as all-arrabiata meaning "angry-style." I digress. Anyway, these chicken thighs are marinated in a wonderful blend of cider vinegar and five different chili spices, then grilled to juicy perfection. Delicious! I love this marinade so much! In addition, you could use it on practically any cut of chicken or even pork. I don't know who created this spice blend, but they must have sold their soul to the devil to create it!

Chicken Thighs Diavolo

Serves 6

Ingredients:

For the marinade

1/4 cup cider vinegar

2 tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon granulated garlic

1 tablespoon coarse salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon Thai chili paste or red pepper flakes (I use Chili Garlic Sauce by Huy Fung Foods, Inc.)

1 teaspoon hot-pepper sauce (I use Cholula.)

1/2 cup water

For the Chicken Thighs

3 pounds bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed of any excess skin and fat

1 or 2 handfuls wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes. (I use mesquite.)

1 large disposable aluminum roasting pan

Directions:

In a bowl, combine marinade ingredients and whisk until the salt and granulated garlic dissolve. Taste and adjust the seasonings; the sauce should be bright red and very spicy. Pour half the sauce into a small serving bowl and set aside.

Rinse the chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Using a sharp knife, score the chicken to the bone in several places to expose the flesh. Place the chicken in a large disposable aluminum roasting pan, pour the remaining sauce over the top and turn to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours. Remove from the refrigerator 10 minutes before grilling.

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for indirect grilling over medium heat.

For a charcoal grill: Sprinkle the wood chips over the coals. Place the pan with the thighs on the cooler side of the grill, cover and cook until cooked through, about 30 minutes. Transfer the thighs to the grate directly over the coals, brush with the marinade from the pan and grill, turning often, until nicely charred on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes more.

For a gas grill: Increase a burner to high. Heat a smoker box half full of chips until smoking, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Place the pan with the thighs over unlit burners, cover and cook until cooked through, about 30 minutes. Transfer the thighs to the grate directly over the heat, brush with the marinade from the pan and grill, turning often, until nicely charred on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a platter. Serve immediately and pass the reserved sauce alongside.

Roosters and Truffles

The last time I visited my daughter in Florence, we took a wine tour through Tuscany and Siena. Our tour guide told us why the black rooster is the symbol of Tuscany and Chianti wine. During the Middle Ages, Tuscany and Siena had to settle a land dispute between the two cities. The two cities decided to each send a knight to ride until they met, which would became the border. The start time for each knight was to wait for a rooster to crow. However, clever Tuscans chose to starve their black rooster, resulting in the rooster crowing far earlier than that of the well fed Siena rooster. The result was that the Tuscan knight rode out far earlier than the Siena knight. The knights met within 12 km from Siena, giving Tuscany most of the Chianti region.

After a lovely yet long day, we arrived back to Florence starving! We stumbled into Osteria Giglio d'oro to enjoy some pasta and Chianti. I ordered the mushroom ravioli with truffle cream sauce. So delicious! In fact, this is a common option in many Florentine establishments, such as Trattoria Za Za. Haha! (IYKYK) When I got home I did a quick search and found this astonishingly easy recipe from Food52 for Ravioli with Truffle Cream Sauce! The recipe calls for salsa tartufada. In America, you may find it called truffle sauce. Also, I prefer tartufada made with some mushrooms, as some versions use some black olives. So read the label. Also, I prefer this recipe with mushroom ravioli. Mangia!

Ravioli with Truffle Cream Sauce

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 Tablespoons butter

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 Tablespoon salsa tartufada (truffle sauce)

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 

8 fresh ravioli (I prefer mushroom ravioli and use 10 for two people.)

Directions:

In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Once melted, add the cream and tartufada. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the Parmigiano and stir.

Meanwhile, cook ravioli according to package recommendations. When done, add to the sauce with 1-2 tablespoons pasta water. Simmer one more minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve on plates.

Fall for Cashmere Potatoes

The first frost of the season is predicted for tomorrow. Brr! Fall is officially here. It's time to resuscitate my beloved cashmere sweaters that have been whimpering in my closet all summer long. Hooray! In honor of the occasion, I want to share a wonderful recipe for "Roasted Rosemary Potatoes" from the king of Italian cashmere, Brunello Cucinelli. 

Brunello Cucinelli headquarters in Solomeo, Italy.

Cucinelli began his luxury brand in 1978, which now consists of the finest Mongolian cashmere, silk, suede, and shearling. His headquarters are located in a completely restored medieval hilltop villa in Solomeo, Italy. Complete with a castle, church, piazza, and amphitheater, it also contains what can only be described as the world's most historic and, of course, luxurious cafeteria. The cafeteria is decked out with crest-bearing china, bottles of local wine, and Cucinelli's own olive oil. However, the food is not created by world-famous chefs, rather three Umbrian women who make everything from scratch and traditional, like these potatoes. 

This recipe caught my eye because the potatoes are parcooked in vinegar water, which sets the starches prior to baking. They are then tossed with garlic, rosemary, olive oil, salt, pepper, and white wine. The result is a more refined and elegant dish that has become a favorite in my household. I make them whenever I roast pork, and always with Arista (Tuscan Roast Pork Loin). While the Cucinelli brand is far beyond my means (Thank God for JCrew), I can always make this luxurious recipe and dream.

Roasted Rosemary Potatoes (aka., Cashmere Potatoes)

Serves 8

Ingredients:

1 cup distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup Kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

3 pounds waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold; about 5), peeled, cut into 3/4" wedges

4 garlic cloves, smashed

6 small sprigs of rosemary

1/4 cup dry white wine (*Cooking Tip: You can always use shelf-stable Vermouth, which I always have tucked away in my kitchen.)

2 tablespoons olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bring vinegar, 1/4 cup salt, and 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add potatoes and cook until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes; drain.

Transfer potatoes to a large rimmed baking sheet and toss with garlic, rosemary, wine, and oil; season with salt and pepper. Roast potatoes, tossing occasionally, until completely tender and just beginning to brown, 35-45 minutes. 

Recipe from the June 2013 Bon Appetit.