Pan de Muertos

Halloween is over. Now what? Let me take you to Mexico, for Dia de los Muertos or Day of the Dead. In Mexico, Day of the Dead is celebrated on November 1 (for children and infants) and November 2 (for adults), to honor and celebrate the lives of the dead. These dates correspond to the Catholic, All Saints Day and All Souls Day, brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. However, Day of the Dead has been celebrated for centuries, all the way back to the Aztecs, when it was celebrated for the entire month of August. Day of the Dead is a time to remember the dead, by cleaning their grave sites, adding flowers (particularly marigolds), gathering pictures, favorite foods and drinks of the deceased, and by eating sugar skulls and Pan de Muertos or Bread of the Dead. It may sound morbid, but it isn't. After all, wouldn't it be nice to know that you wouldn't be forgotten?

In honor of the tradition of Day of the Dead, I'm offering an authentic recipe for Pan de Muertos or Bread of the Dead. It is an exotic yeast bread, flavored with a hint of anise, sugar, milk, and eggs. Sometimes other flavors are added, like cinnamon and orange, but it is it's shape that makes it distinctive. Pan de Muertos is traditionally decorated with sugar, two "bone-shaped" pieces of dough, and topped with a skull or tear shape to represent sorrow. Something like this:

Pan de Muertos (Bread of the Dead)

Serves 14-16

Ingredients:

For the dough

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup milk

1/4 cup warm water

3 cups all-purpose flour

1-1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon anise seed

1/4 cup white sugar

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons orange zest

For the glaze

1/4 cup white sugar

1/4 cup orange juice

1 tablespoon orange zest

2 tablespoons colored or white sugar

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, mix together the milk and butter until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat and stir in the warm water.

In a large mixing bowl, combine 1 cup of flour, yeast, salt, anise seed, and sugar, blending well. Stir in the warm milk mixture, eggs, and orange zest, mixing until well blended. Slowly add flour, 1 cup at a time to create the dough. Place the dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. If the dough is too sticky, add a little more flour.

Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place. Allow the dough to rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours. Punch the dough down, removing 1 fistful of the dough and set that aside. Take the larger portion of dough and place it on a baking sheet, shaping it into a round dome.

Using the dough you had set aside, shape two small, long bone shapes to be placed on top the dome. Lightly cover the dough with plastic wrap and allow it to double in size, about 1 hour. Bake in a 350 degree pre-heated oven for about 25 to 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on wire rack to cool slightly.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, mix together the 1/4 cup of white sugar, orange juice, and orange zest, stirring until it comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and brush over the warm bread. Sprinkle with colored or white sugar. 

Recipe adapted from Texas Cooking Online.

Happy Halloween and Goulash Madness!

Want to go mad? Try finding an "authentic" recipe for Goulash! Goulash, which is considered to be a national dish of Hungary, can take many forms, depending on which region of Europe it is made. Goulash is not the hamburger helper-like ground beef/macaroni/tomato bastardization peddled by cafeteria ladies across the US. From what I can tell, Hungarian goulash is a beef (or veal or pork) soup, made with equal parts onions and meat, seasoned with garlic, paprika, caraway, and sometimes additional vegetables, like turnips, parsnips, potatoes, and peppers. Goulash is traditionally served with steamed dumplings or tiny egg noodles called csipetke (like German spaetzle), which are pinched off (csip means pinch) and added to the simmering soup. Traditionalists consider tomatoes a faux pas, as well as using flour to thicken the soup.

Goulash, or "guylas" meaning "herdsman," originated with the cowboys of the region. Comparable to what chili is to Texas cowboys. It's also important to note that paprika was not an original ingredient in the dish, as paprika was not introduced to the region until the 16th century. Let's add a little bit more confusion, enter "porkolt." Porkolt is a meat stew that also has it's origins in Hungary. Porkolt is a stew, not soup, made with meat, vegetables but not potatoes, and seasoned with the ever important paprika. In fact, most goulash recipes that I have tried (which is a lot!) are actually the rich porkolt stew. In addition, I've also read that goulash is soup made with leftover porkolt!?! Oh, and then there are "paprikas" (aka., Paprikash) which are made with meat, paprika, and thickened with sour cream. Feeling a little mad, yet?

Anyway, with Halloween almost here, I can't think of a better meal to ward off the sugar comas my kids are soon to induce, than a nice rich bowl of hearty goulash! This recipe is adapted from Wolfgang Puck's recipe for Beef Goulash. I found his version to produce a more complex and appealing flavor, from caramelized onions to the addition of a couple tablespoons of balsamic vinegar. Changes I made were to brown the meat first, reduce the amount of caraway as it is quite strong (note: caraway and cumin are not the same thing, nor do they taste similar), upped the amount of paprika, added a dash of cayenne pepper, and opted to serve it with buttered egg noodles rather than spaetzle, to make it a little more streamlined. Although this delicious recipe is more accurately a cross between goulash and porkolt, the name "goul-ash" is just more fun to say and perfect for All Hallows' Eve!

Beef Goulash

Serves 4

Ingredients:

3 pounds beef chuck, cut into approximately 2" cubes, seasoned with salt and pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 cups onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sugar

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon caraway seeds, toasted and ground (don't leave them whole!), optional

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (can also use red wine vinegar instead)

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 1/2 tablespoons paprika

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, minced (if you don't have fresh, use 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)

1 bay leaf

4 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup chopped Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped

Sour cream, for serving

1/2 pound cooked and butter egg noodles, to serve

Directions:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a large pot or dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When shimmery, add the beef cubes in batches, as to not overcrowd the pan, and brown on each side, adding more oil if necessary. (This step is very important to ensure a nice beefy flavor.) Set aside.

Reduce heat to medium and add the onions and sugar. Stir until the onions are caramelized, about 8-10 minutes. Add the garlic and caraway. Cook for 1 minute. Deglaze with the vinegar and add the tomato paste, paprika, cayenne, marjoram, thyme, bay leaf, stock, reserved beef cubes, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover and place in the oven until the meat is very tender, about 2-2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. If the mixture looks too soupy, remove the cover the last 30 minutes in the oven.

When tender, taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in some of the parsley, reserving some for garnish. Serve over egg noodles with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of parsley. 

For more Halloween recipes, check out:


Chocolate Orange Cupcakes with Limoncello Frosting


Witch Hat Cookies


Soul Cakes


Aztec Chocolate Skulls


Superb Squash Soup with the Best Parmesan Croutons

Roosters and Truffles

The last time I visited my daughter in Florence, we took a wine tour through Tuscany and Siena. Our tour guide told us why the black rooster is the symbol of Tuscany and Chianti wine. During the Middle Ages, Tuscany and Siena had to settle a land dispute between the two cities. The two cities decided to each send a knight to ride until they met, which would became the border. The start time for each knight was to wait for a rooster to crow. However, clever Tuscans chose to starve their black rooster, resulting in the rooster crowing far earlier than that of the well fed Siena rooster. The result was that the Tuscan knight rode out far earlier than the Siena knight. The knights met within 12 km from Siena, giving Tuscany most of the Chianti region.

After a lovely yet long day, we arrived back to Florence starving! We stumbled into Osteria Giglio d'oro to enjoy some pasta and Chianti. I ordered the mushroom ravioli with truffle cream sauce. So delicious! In fact, this is a common option in many Florentine establishments, such as Trattoria Za Za. Haha! (IYKYK) When I got home I did a quick search and found this astonishingly easy recipe from Food52 for Ravioli with Truffle Cream Sauce! The recipe calls for salsa tartufada. In America, you may find it called truffle sauce. Also, I prefer tartufada made with some mushrooms, as some versions use some black olives. So read the label. Also, I prefer this recipe with mushroom ravioli. Mangia!

Ravioli with Truffle Cream Sauce

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 Tablespoons butter

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 Tablespoon salsa tartufada (truffle sauce)

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 

8 fresh ravioli (I prefer mushroom ravioli and use 10 for two people.)

Directions:

In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Once melted, add the cream and tartufada. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the Parmigiano and stir.

Meanwhile, cook ravioli according to package recommendations. When done, add to the sauce with 1-2 tablespoons pasta water. Simmer one more minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve on plates.