Romancing the Tin

Many years ago, before my first child was born, my husband and I visited Northern Italy. As we were young and broke, we backpacked across this romantic region of Italy. Besides the amazing architecture, museums, cathedrals, and breathtaking vistas, we fell in love with Caffarel Gianduia 1865 chocolates, (a sublime mixture of milk chocolate and hazelnuts). In fact, one of a handful of treasures we brought back from Italy, was a tin of these magnificent "boat" shaped confections.

In 1826, Pier Paul Caffarel began making chocolates in an ex-tannery located at the edge of old Turin city centre. In 1852, Caffarel introduced it's new confection, called Givu, meaning "stub" in Piedmontese dialect, which became known as the original Turin Gianduiotto. In 1865, during the Turin Carnival, Gianduia (the masked character that is the official representative of the city) handed out Caffarel Gianduiotti to the spectators. From then on, the character Gianduia became associated with the chocolate; hence, Gianduiotto Caffarel became known as Gianduia 1865. The factory has since relocated to Luserna San Giovanni (the birthplace of Pier Paul Caffarel). Here is a look inside!

So, when I ran across this "Giandua Souffle" recipe, by Giada de Laurentiis, I had to try it! These individual chocolate souffles, made with milk chocolate and hazelnut liqueur, are amazing! You want to know what the best part is? You can make them up to 2 days ahead, before baking! It's no wonder they wound up on my holiday menu! Well, even though my Gianduia tin is empty, I still have it and this treasured recipe! Buon Natale!

Giandua Souffle

Makes 6, 6-ounce ramekins

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon sugar, plus 1/4 cup, plus more for ramekins

1 tablespoon hazelnut liqueur (Frangelico)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 ounces milk chocolate, chopped or chips, plus 6 ounces, chopped or chips (this is by weight, click here for more on food scales)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

Pinch salt

4 eggs, separated

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees, if you are going to bake them now. Butter and sugar 6, 6-ounce ramekins, or more if using smaller ones.

Heat the butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, hazelnut liqueur, and vanilla in a double boiler over medium heat until the butter melts. (Click here for more on double boilers.) Remove the butter mixture from the heat, add the 3 ounces of chocolate, and let sit until it melts, about 3 minutes. Place the chocolate mixture in a pie dish and place in the freezer for 10 minutes to firm up. Use a spoon to form the chilled mixture into 6 evenly-sized  balls (truffles) about the size of a walnut. Reserve in the refrigerator.

Meanwhile, place the flour in a double boiler and slowly whisk in the milk. Add the salt. Heat the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly until thick, about 5 minutes. Add the egg yolks and continue to whisk constantly. Don't curdle the eggs! Turn down the heat, if necessary! The mixture will thicken to the consistency of mayonnaise in another 3 to 4 minutes. Like this:

Stir in the 6 ounces of chocolate and set aside to let the chocolate melt.

Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl or stand mixer. Using a hand or stand mixer, whip the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add in the 1/4 cup sugar and continue whipping until firm peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the warm chocolate mixture.

Place a ball (truffle) of the chilled chocolate mixture in each of the ramekins.

Spoon the souffle mixture over the truffles and up to the rim of the ramekins. (At this point the souffles can be covered and kept refrigerated for 2 days.)

Place the ramekins in a hot water bath (a baking pan, filled with hot water, about 3/4 way up the ramekins) and bake until golden on top and the souffle has risen, about 30 minutes (40 minutes if refrigerated). (The souffles won't rise as high if they were previously refrigerated. That's okay. They sink quickly anyway!) Remove from the oven. (Click here for a tip on how to remove hot ramekins from a water bath.) Serve immediately. Delicious!

Merry Christmas with a Spanish Twist!

My best friend moved to Madrid this year. Although I miss her, she has inspired me to indulge my love of all the cuisines of Spain. Over Thanksgiving, I made tapas for a very small gathering and it was fabulous! Not only did it simplify the holiday, but everyone could partake in whatever they wanted! Perfect! There is one tapa I make over and over, "Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Goat Cheese!" Not only is it easy and delicious, but it reminds me of Santa hats! So cute!

Piquillo Peppers Stuffed with Goat Cheese

Serving size is 2 peppers per person

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons finely diced shallots

1 scallion (white part only), thinly sliced

1 1/2 teaspoons aged Spanish sherry vinegar

1 can (13.75 ounces; 16 peppers) piquillo peppers, drained

3 ounces low fat soft goat cheese (I use full fat!), softened (I don't measure the cheese. Just fill each pepper until full.)

Olive oil

1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Directions:

Whisk shallots, scallion and vinegar in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Slice open the top of each pepper to create a pocket. (I've never bought piquillo peppers that weren't already sliced at the top, making this step unnecessary.)

Spoon the cheese into peppers, dividing it equally among them.

Heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Cook the peppers, flipping once, until the cheese begins to melt, about 30 seconds each side. Transfer to a platter. Sprinkle with the parsley and thyme. Drizzle dressing over peppers and serve.

Slightly adapted from Jose Andres.

Fungus Among Us

What's the best thing about the holidays? My adorable "Meringue Mushrooms." They are super easy and only require four ingredients: egg whites, sugar, chocolate, and cocoa powder! You use plastic sandwich bags to pipe the mushroom caps and stems, which takes a little practice, but you just get better and better as you go. The mushrooms are dusted with cocoa powder at the end, so that diminishes any imperfections. These make excellent gifts, packaged in recycled mushroom containers or in glass jars, and are the perfect companion to Buche de Noel. These go so fast, I usual make several batches throughout the holidays. They are so cute, you have to try it!

Meringue Mushrooms

Makes about 50

Ingredients:

2 egg whites

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate, chopped or chips

Cocoa powder, for dusting

Directions:

Heat the oven to 200 degrees. 

In a stand mixer, beat the egg whites and sugar until smooth and glossy, and soft peaks start to form, about 6-8 minutes.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Fill a sandwich bag with about 1/2 cup of the meringue. Press the air out of the bag and seal shut. Cut one tip off the bottom of the bag and coax the meringue to that corner. Twist the bag to help hold the meringue in place. With the cut tip close to the parchment, gently squeeze out the meringue to form the mushroom cap. (Don't lift the bag up until the cap spreads out, then lift.) 

To make the stems, gently squeeze and lift, to make a sort of "kiss" shape. Make as many stems as you have caps. Dip your finger into some water, dab any excess water onto a towel, and then smooth out the tops of the caps with a gentle patting motion.  

When your baking sheet is full, place in the oven, and bake until completely dry and easily releases from the parchment. This can take anywhere from 2-3 hours, depending on the oven and humidity. If they start to brown, turn the oven temperature down. To check if they are done, try to lift one of the less attractive caps, if it releases easily, then press the bottom of the cap. If it smooshes easily, it's not done. If it's firm, it's done. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the baking sheet.

Now, holding one mushroom cap, gently twist the tip of a small sharp knife into the bottom of the cap. Keep twisting until you have a hole in the bottom, like drilling. Don't press too hard, or you will crack the cap. Repeat with the remaining caps.

In another sandwich bag, place the chocolate inside, do not seal the bag, and microwave 15 seconds at a time, smooshing the chocolate after each interval with your fingers, until the chocolate is smooth and melted. Allow to cool slightly. You don't want it runny. Seal the bag, cut one of the bottom tips, and squeeze a little chocolate into one of the cap holes. Insert one of the stems, point side first, into the cap. Set aside to dry. Repeat with the remaining caps and stems.

Finally, using a fine sieve, dust the tops of the mushrooms with cocoa powder. Admire how cute they are and pop one in your mouth. Enjoy!