Happy Halloween and Goulash Madness!

Want to go mad? Try finding an "authentic" recipe for Goulash! Goulash, which is considered to be a national dish of Hungary, can take many forms, depending on which region of Europe it is made. Goulash is not the hamburger helper-like ground beef/macaroni/tomato bastardization peddled by cafeteria ladies across the US. From what I can tell, Hungarian goulash is a beef (or veal or pork) soup, made with equal parts onions and meat, seasoned with garlic, paprika, caraway, and sometimes additional vegetables, like turnips, parsnips, potatoes, and peppers. Goulash is traditionally served with steamed dumplings or tiny egg noodles called csipetke (like German spaetzle), which are pinched off (csip means pinch) and added to the simmering soup. Traditionalists consider tomatoes a faux pas, as well as using flour to thicken the soup.

Goulash, or "guylas" meaning "herdsman," originated with the cowboys of the region. Comparable to what chili is to Texas cowboys. It's also important to note that paprika was not an original ingredient in the dish, as paprika was not introduced to the region until the 16th century. Let's add a little bit more confusion, enter "porkolt." Porkolt is a meat stew that also has it's origins in Hungary. Porkolt is a stew, not soup, made with meat, vegetables but not potatoes, and seasoned with the ever important paprika. In fact, most goulash recipes that I have tried (which is a lot!) are actually the rich porkolt stew. In addition, I've also read that goulash is soup made with leftover porkolt!?! Oh, and then there are "paprikas" (aka., Paprikash) which are made with meat, paprika, and thickened with sour cream. Feeling a little mad, yet?

Anyway, with Halloween almost here, I can't think of a better meal to ward off the sugar comas my kids are soon to induce, than a nice rich bowl of hearty goulash! This recipe is adapted from Wolfgang Puck's recipe for Beef Goulash. I found his version to produce a more complex and appealing flavor, from caramelized onions to the addition of a couple tablespoons of balsamic vinegar. Changes I made were to brown the meat first, reduce the amount of caraway as it is quite strong (note: caraway and cumin are not the same thing, nor do they taste similar), upped the amount of paprika, added a dash of cayenne pepper, and opted to serve it with buttered egg noodles rather than spaetzle, to make it a little more streamlined. Although this delicious recipe is more accurately a cross between goulash and porkolt, the name "goul-ash" is just more fun to say and perfect for All Hallows' Eve!

Beef Goulash

Serves 4

Ingredients:

3 pounds beef chuck, cut into approximately 2" cubes, seasoned with salt and pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 cups onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sugar

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon caraway seeds, toasted and ground (don't leave them whole!), optional

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (can also use red wine vinegar instead)

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 1/2 tablespoons paprika

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, minced (if you don't have fresh, use 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)

1 bay leaf

4 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup chopped Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped

Sour cream, for serving

1/2 pound cooked and butter egg noodles, to serve

Directions:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a large pot or dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When shimmery, add the beef cubes in batches, as to not overcrowd the pan, and brown on each side, adding more oil if necessary. (This step is very important to ensure a nice beefy flavor.) Set aside.

Reduce heat to medium and add the onions and sugar. Stir until the onions are caramelized, about 8-10 minutes. Add the garlic and caraway. Cook for 1 minute. Deglaze with the vinegar and add the tomato paste, paprika, cayenne, marjoram, thyme, bay leaf, stock, reserved beef cubes, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover and place in the oven until the meat is very tender, about 2-2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. If the mixture looks too soupy, remove the cover the last 30 minutes in the oven.

When tender, taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in some of the parsley, reserving some for garnish. Serve over egg noodles with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of parsley. 

For more Halloween recipes, check out:


Chocolate Orange Cupcakes with Limoncello Frosting


Witch Hat Cookies


Soul Cakes


Aztec Chocolate Skulls


Superb Squash Soup with the Best Parmesan Croutons

Welcome fall with this Vegetarian Masterpiece

I welcome the drop in temperatures, the changing colors, and the smell of fire pits as fall settles in. I also welcome the change from light summer meals to more cozy and rich cuisine. This recipe for Crispy Polenta Cakes with Wild Mushroom Ragout is one of my absolute favorites! I have been making it for at least twenty years and am still delighted every time! I also find it to be perfect for any vegetarian guest I might be serving. 

You need to make the polenta ahead before spreading it into a buttered 9x9 pan to cool, then refrigerate before cutting into triangles. I usually make the polenta the day before. This makes it easy for a dinner party and allows plenty of time to enjoy your guests! Serve with a lovely salad, baguette, and a simple cheese and fruit for dessert! Tres chic! 

Crispy Polenta Cakes with Wild Mushroom Ragout

Serves 6

Ingredients:

Kosher salt
1 cup (2 oz/60g) coarse polenta (I use Bob's Red Mill yellow corn polenta.)
1/2 cup (2 oz/60g) grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
4 tablespoons (2 oz/60g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound (450g) mixed fresh mushrooms, trimmed and sliced (Or whatever mushrooms you prefer.)
3 cups (24 Fl oz/725mL) chicken stock (Or vegetarian stock.)
1/2 cup (4 Fl oz/120mL) heavy cream
2 cups (8 oz/225g) all-purpose flour for dusting the polenta
1 cup (8 Fl oz/240mL) olive oil for frying

Directions:

Bring 6 cups (48 Fl oz/1.4L) of water and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and slowly add the cornmeal in a shower, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. (Or cook according to package directions.) When done, add the Parmigiano and 2 tablespoons of the butter and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Immediately spread into a buttered 9x9-inch (23x23cm) pan. Smooth the top with a rubber spatula and refrigerate. Combine the parsley and garlic and chop together until very fine. Reserve.

In a large skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter with the 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and the mushrooms liquid has evaporated, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove the mushrooms and set aside. Add the chicken stock, cream, garlic, and parsley to the pan and simmer to reduce by half, 6 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Score the polenta into six 3x4-inch squares. Halve each square diagonally to make 2 triangles. Remove from the pan and toss the polenta triangles carefully in flour to dust them lightly.

Heat 1/2 inch of olive oil in a large, deep frying pan until the oil sizzles and a tiny piece of polenta turns golden on contact, 375 degrees (190 degree C). Add a few of the polenta triangles and cook, turning occasionally, until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels.

To serve, place 2 hot polenta triangles on each plate. Warm the mushroom ragout and spoon over the polenta. Serve immediately. (A sprig of fresh thyme would be a nice garnish.)

Recipe from Weir Cooking: Recipes from the Wine Country, by Joanne Weir. I love that book and highly recommend!