Burn Your Buche and Eat It Too!

Christmas is my favorite holiday! After all, it's the only day of the year that I can splurge with such scrumptious holiday faire such as Boeuf en Croute, Gratin Dauphinois, Chocolate Truffles au Naturel, Seven Layer Jello, and the iconic French Christmas cake "Buche de Noel!" So, why do the French celebrate Christmas with a cake that looks like a log? It actually began as a pagan tradition where the largest log possible (perhaps bearing roots and all) was wrangled inside to provide warmth and blessings on the winter solstice (the longest night of the year). As it burned, the log was pushed deeper and deeper into the hearth to hopefully burn for 12 hours. When the log was finished burning, the ashes were collected for use all through the year. At the time there were strong beliefs that the ashes were magical! Some of the ashes were saved to spread over the fields to ensure a generous harvest, some were used to protect the house from lightning during strong storms, and some were kept to ward off evil!

Booze and fire! What could go wrong?

When Christianity emerged, the Yule log ritual was merged with Christmas and the custom shifted to Christmas Eve. It is rumored that it was Napoleon who spurred the invention of the cake, by outlawing open chimneys in the winter, which he believed was causing disease. Or, perhaps it was the increasing use of small coal stoves as a heat source, which began as a result of wood shortages. Another theory is that it was virtually impossible to drag logs up urban Parisian stairways, if they even had a fireplace. Whichever theory you choose to believe, The Buche de Noel's popularity began in 19th century France and remains an essential Christmas tradition to this day.

This decadent recipe for Buche de Noel is from the brilliant Jean-Christophe Novelli, former personal chef to the Rothschild family and owner of the world renowned Novelli Academy. Who better than a Frenchman to provide an authentic recipe! Don't let this cake scare you. It really is just a simple sponge roulade, filled and covered with buttercream frosting. The recipe calls for chestnut puree, which can be difficult to find in American grocers. You can just omit the chestnut puree, or you can adjust the flavors to your desire, e.g., coffee and Kahlua, almond and Amaretto, cherries and Kirsch, etc. In addition, meringue mushrooms and a snowy dusting of powdered sugar and cocoa make a spectacular presentation!

Buche de Noel

*Get out your kitchen scale! (See Gadgets.)

Ingredients:
For the Cake:
7 ounces/200 grams all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
7 eggs, separated
8 ounces/225 grams castor/granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (I omit.)
6 tablespoons castor/granulated sugar (for dusting tea towel)

For the Filling/Frosting:
1 lb, 5 ounces/600 grams 70% bitter chocolate (or the best quality you can find)
9 ounces/250 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature
5 ounces/140 grams icing/powdered/confectioners sugar
2 ounces/60 grams sweetened chestnut puree (You can omit completely, or alter to your preference, see above.)
5 tablespoons whisky (or whatever you choose)

Directions:
For the Cake:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees, and line a 17x11x1-inch jelly roll pan with parchment paper.

Sift the flour, baking powder, cocoa, and salt together in a bowl, set aside.

In a stand mixer, beat the egg yolks and half (4 ounces) of the sugar with a whisk until doubled in volume. Add the dry ingredients and fold in. Add the vanilla and cinnamon (if using). The mixture will be very stiff. (I transfer the mixture to the largest bowl I have, so I can use my mixer for beating the egg whites.)

In a stand mixer, whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form soft peaks. Add the remaining (4 ounces) sugar and whisk until the egg whites (meringue) form stiff peaks.

Stir 1/3rd of the meringue mixture into the egg yolk/cocoa mixture to soften it. Then gently fold the rest of the meringue mixture in two stages, carefully so as to retain as much air as possible.

Spread the mixture into the lined pan and bake for 8-15 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean.

Dust a tea towel with the 6 tablespoons sugar and turn the cooked sponge onto it. Carefully remove the parchment paper and quickly roll (long side to long side) the cake up into a log. Although it will seem like a lot of sugar, it makes a lovely crust on the cake. Don't worry if the cake cracks a bit as it rolls up, it will all be covered by the frosting. Set aside to cool before filling and frosting.

For the Filling/Frosting:
Melt the chocolate in double boiler. (If you don't have one, set a metal bowl over a pot of simmering water. See Gadgets.)

In a stand mixer, beat the butter and 5 ounces icing sugar together. Add the chestnut puree (if using) and continue to mix to a  smooth, spreadable paste. Gradually incorporate the melted chocolate and allow to cool to room temperature.

Finishing the Cake:
When the sponge has cooled, unroll it carefully. (Again, any cracks don't matter.) Brush with half the whisky (or whatever you desire).

Spread some of the filling evenly over the sponge to within about 2 cm from each edge. Using the tea towel to assist, roll the sponge back up and brush liberally with the rest of the whisky and allow to soak in.

Trim the ends and use these to form branches by placing back onto the log. (You can use some of the buttercream to help "glue" them on.)

Use the remaining filling to generously coat the cake all over. Use the tines of a fork to give a bark effect.

Dust with powdered sugar and cocoa and decorate with meringue mushrooms. Proudly serve with a smile!

Joyeux Noel!

Fungus Among Us

What's the best thing about the holidays? My adorable "Meringue Mushrooms." They are super easy and only require four ingredients: egg whites, sugar, chocolate, and cocoa powder! You use plastic sandwich bags to pipe the mushroom caps and stems, which takes a little practice, but you just get better and better as you go. The mushrooms are dusted with cocoa powder at the end, so that diminishes any imperfections. These make excellent gifts, packaged in recycled mushroom containers or in glass jars, and are the perfect companion to Buche de Noel. These go so fast, I usual make several batches throughout the holidays. They are so cute, you have to try it!

Meringue Mushrooms

Makes about 50

Ingredients:

2 egg whites

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate, chopped or chips

Cocoa powder, for dusting

Directions:

Heat the oven to 200 degrees. 

In a stand mixer, beat the egg whites and sugar until smooth and glossy, and soft peaks start to form, about 6-8 minutes.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Fill a sandwich bag with about 1/2 cup of the meringue. Press the air out of the bag and seal shut. Cut one tip off the bottom of the bag and coax the meringue to that corner. Twist the bag to help hold the meringue in place. With the cut tip close to the parchment, gently squeeze out the meringue to form the mushroom cap. (Don't lift the bag up until the cap spreads out, then lift.) 

To make the stems, gently squeeze and lift, to make a sort of "kiss" shape. Make as many stems as you have caps. Dip your finger into some water, dab any excess water onto a towel, and then smooth out the tops of the caps with a gentle patting motion.  

When your baking sheet is full, place in the oven, and bake until completely dry and easily releases from the parchment. This can take anywhere from 2-3 hours, depending on the oven and humidity. If they start to brown, turn the oven temperature down. To check if they are done, try to lift one of the less attractive caps, if it releases easily, then press the bottom of the cap. If it smooshes easily, it's not done. If it's firm, it's done. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the baking sheet.

Now, holding one mushroom cap, gently twist the tip of a small sharp knife into the bottom of the cap. Keep twisting until you have a hole in the bottom, like drilling. Don't press too hard, or you will crack the cap. Repeat with the remaining caps.

In another sandwich bag, place the chocolate inside, do not seal the bag, and microwave 15 seconds at a time, smooshing the chocolate after each interval with your fingers, until the chocolate is smooth and melted. Allow to cool slightly. You don't want it runny. Seal the bag, cut one of the bottom tips, and squeeze a little chocolate into one of the cap holes. Insert one of the stems, point side first, into the cap. Set aside to dry. Repeat with the remaining caps and stems.

Finally, using a fine sieve, dust the tops of the mushrooms with cocoa powder. Admire how cute they are and pop one in your mouth. Enjoy!

Thanksgiving in the Southwest - Part 5, The Grand Finale!

What would Thanksgiving be without pumpkin pie? This traditional dessert of the season originated with the early American settlers of the Plymouth Plantation, who celebrated their first harvest season in 1621 with a three day celebration along with the local native Americans. Although the pumpkins were more likely hollowed out, filled with milk, honey, and spices, and then baked in hot ashes. It wasn't until 1651, when famous French chef Francois Pierre la Varenne wrote La Vrai Cuisinier Francois, which included a recipe for pumpkin pie, did pumpkin pie take its modern form. In 1929, when the Libby McNeill and Libby Company (LM&L) purchased Dickinson and Company, canned pumpkin became readily accessible. Today, LIBBY'S is now owned by Nestle and produces 85% of the world's canned pumpkin!

For my nontraditional Southwestern Thanksgiving menu, of course traditional pumpkin pie is not on the menu. Gasp! Instead, a decadent pumpkin creme brulee served with fresh raspberries is the grand finale! This luscious custard is made with cream, sugar, vanilla, and eggs, and is elevated with the addition of canned pumpkin! It's an unforgettable dessert and unique alternative to traditional pumpkin pie! Bissinger's Chocolate Cinnamon Chile Cake would also be a wonderful addition! Happy Thanksgiving!

Pumpkin Creme Brulee

Serves 6

Ingredients:

For the Custard

1/2 vanilla bean, split

2 1/2 cups heavy cream

2/3 cup sugar

8 large egg yolks

1 cup pumpkin (LIBBYS of course!)

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

For the Topping

1/2 cup sugar

Fresh raspberries, for garnish

Directions:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise. 

Heat cream, sugar, and vanilla bean until hot, but not boiling to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat. 

Meanwhile, beat egg yolks, pumpkin, and vanilla extract until smooth. Strain out vanilla bean from cream mixture. Reserve bean and scrape out seeds. Add seeds back to cream mixture and stir to incorporate. 

Temper the egg yolks by adding just a little of the hot cream mixture to equalize the temperature. This will keep the eggs from "scrambling" when the rest of the hot mixture is added. Then add the rest of the cream and mix well. 

Pour into 6 small ramekins. Place the ramekins in a bain marie (a 2-inch high roasting pan filled halfway up with hot water). 

Bake at 325 degrees for 20-30 minutes until firm, but still a little wiggly in the center. (It took mine a few minutes more). Remove from water and chill 4 hours or preferably overnight. 

Sprinkle sugar onto the tops and using a torch or broiler, quickly brown to caramelize sugar. Garnish with a few raspberries and serve immediately.

Thanksgiving in the Southwest - Part 4

As part of my Southwestern Thanksgiving menu, these "Smashed Candied Sweet Potatoes" make a colorful substitution for the traditional mashed potatoes. Unusual additions like chile powder and red wine vinegar balance the sweetness of the honey. Not only is this a beautiful side dish, it is interesting and addictive! It's almost like dessert! If this fabulous recipe doesn't appeal to you, another option would be Whipped Chipotle Sweet Potatoes.

Smashed Candied Sweet Potatoes

Serves 6

Ingredients:

5 large sweet potatoes (about 3 pounds)

1 cup honey

2 tablespoons Guajillo or New Mexican red chile powder

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 cup butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Roast potatoes until tender, about 45 minutes. Let sit until cool enough to handle. Cut in half and scoop insides into a large bowl. Discard the skins. Smash, mixing in remaining ingredients. Place in a serving dish and return to oven to reheat until hot. Serve hot.

Thanksgiving in the Southwest - Part 3

I love it when cranberries come into season! Not only are they a must with your Thanksgiving turkey, they make beautiful displays in hurricane lanterns with candles. One of my favorite brunch recipes is my Cranberry Pear Coffee Cake, as well as this exciting "Cranberry-Jalapeno Chutney." This recipe utilizes jalapenos for a touch of heat, golden raisins for added sweetness, crystallized ginger for zing, and a splash of lime juice to counteract the sugar. If you are afraid of the jalapenos, just remove the seeds. It is the perfect addition to my Southwestern Thanksgiving menu, alongside Stuffed Turkey Rolls with Poblano Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing and Pecan Mole Sauce. Easy, delicious, and beautiful!

Cranberry-Jalapeno Chutney

Serves 6

Ingredients:

4 cups fresh or frozen cranberries, roughly chopped

2 fresh jalapenos, thinly sliced

1/2 cup golden raisins

1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, finely chopped

2 tablespoons crystallized ginger, minced

2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lime juice

1/2 cup cranberry juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

Directions:

Combine all ingredients and cook over medium heat until cranberries are tender and chutney has thickened. Taste; if too tart, add more sugar. Let cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Serve as a garnish for the Stuffed Turkey Rolls. This is also great served with pork tenderloin or roasted turkey.

Thanksgiving in the Southwest - Part 2, and the Disappearing Table!

It's no secret that my mother was a terrible cook! Nor did she cook often. In fact, I only remember one Thanksgiving that she attempted to make herself. It was a small affair because my father, who was Chief of Surgery, always worked on Thanksgiving so he could spend Christmas at home. I remember sitting with my brother and sister at our formal dining table from Italy, which consisted of a cast iron base and an inch thick beveled glass top. While we sat there horsing around, my mother brought in the piping hot turkey in its roasting pan, sat it on the corner of the table, and promptly returned to the kitchen to get the remaining dishes. One minute later, the entire corner of the table cracked and fell to the ground, turkey and all! My siblings and I sat there wide-eyed, not knowing her reaction, and didn't mutter a peep. When she returned and saw that part of the table had disappeared along with the turkey, she said, "I always hated that table. Your father has terrible taste." Needless to say, after their divorce a few years later, she left the table when we moved....and that darn glass corner was still sitting there, just where it had fell! 

Moral of the story? Besides not placing a hot roasting pan directly on a glass table, sometimes roasting an entire turkey is more trouble than it's worth! So as part of my Southwestern Thanksgiving menu, try this unforgettably delicious recipe for "Stuffed Turkey Rolls with Poblano Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing and Pecan Mole Sauce." Instead of dealing with an entire turkey, turkey tenderloins are marinated in a delicious white wine-Dijon marinade, rolled around a fantastic chorizo-poblano stuffing, and served with a simple yet delicious pecan mole sauce. The turkey needs to be marinated 2 days ahead, filled and rolled 1 day ahead, making it convenient and hands-off on Thanksgiving day. In addition, the pecan mole sauce can also be made days ahead so you can enjoy the holiday with family and friends! I promise you will love it!

Stuffed Turkey Rolls with Poblano Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing and Pecan Mole Sauce

Serves 6-8

Ingredients for Turkey Rolls:

4 turkey tenderloins

For the Marinade:

1 cup white wine

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt 

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon Mustang Spice* (*1 teaspoon Guajillo chile powder, 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning, and 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt)

1 teaspoon poultry seasoning

1/2 cup olive oil

1 cup chicken stock

1 recipe Poblano Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing (see below)

1 recipe Pecan Mole Sauce (see below)

Directions for Turkey Rolls:

*Two days before cooking:

Remove tendon from tenderloins, splitting in two. Butterfly each piece open and pound slightly to flatten and even out thickness.

Mix wine, mustard, seasonings and oil in a freezer zipper-close plastic bag and add tenderloin fillets. Marinate for a minimum of 2 hours or overnight. (Overnight is preferred.)

*One day before cooking:

Remove from the marinade and discard bag. Lay out a piece of plastic wrap and lay out 4 approximately 12-inch pieces of kitchen twine on top of the plastic wrap. 

Next nestle 4 of the tenderloin fillets next to each other and top with half of the Poblano Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing. (If you can't get all the stuffing in the turkey rolls, reserve the remainder and refrigerate until time of baking.)

Using the plastic wrap to help, roll and tie the tenderloins together. Tighten the plastic wrap around the turkey roll, twist ends and fold under. Repeat with the remainder of turkey and stuffing, making two rolls. Refrigerate overnight.

*Time to cook:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Carefully remove plastic wrap and discard. Lay turkey rolls seam-side down in a buttered baking dish. Add any leftover stuffing to the ends of the rolls. (At this point, I recommend inserting an oven-safe meat thermometer. See Gadgets.) Pour in 1 cup of stock and cover with lid or foil.

Bake for approximately 1-1 1/2 hours, until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees. Let rest at least 10 minutes before slicing and serving with pecan mole sauce (recipe follows). I promise you will love it!

Poblano Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing

Ingredients:

1, 9"x9" pan cornbread, crumbled (I baked 1 box of Jiffy cornbread mix and it was just the right amount.)

1/2 teaspoon each dried sage, thyme, oregano, and cumin

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

2 poblano peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced (See Techniques for more information, if needed.)

1/2 stick butter

1 cup red onions, diced

1 cup celery, sliced

14 ounce Mexican chorizo, casing removed, cooked, and well drained

3 eggs

1 cup chicken stock (or more as necessary)

Directions:

Crumble cornbread into a large bowl. Add herbs, poblano, and spices. Heat butter over medium heat and saute the onions and celery until translucent. Add to cornbread. Mix well. Add enough stock to moisten. Add drained chorizo and mix in well. Beat eggs and add to stuffing. Use to stuff turkey rolls, or to use as a casserole, bake in a pan about 25 minutes at 350 degrees.

Pecan Mole Sauce

Ingredients:

2 Ancho chiles (Ancho chiles are dried poblano chiles, available at most well-stocked grocers, Mexican grocers,or online.)

2 cups water

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup onion, diced

3 garlic cloves, peeled

4 roma tomatoes

1 cup toasted pecans

2 slices stale white bread, torn into pieces

4 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup red wine

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

Directions:
Soak Ancho chiles in warm water for about 10 minutes to rehydrate. Drain and remove stems.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat and saute the onions and garlic for approximately 8 minutes or until browned and caramelized. Set aside.

Broil or roast tomatoes until the skins are blackened and slightly softened. Peel when cool enough to handle and discard the skins.

Place the tomatoes, pecans, onions and garlic, bread, Anchos and 1 cup of the chicken stock in a blender. Process until smooth.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the puree from the blender and remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook stirring occasionally until thickened, about 1 hour. Strain if a smoother sauce is desired and serve.

Thanksgiving in the Southwest - Part 1

Last Thanksgiving, the thought of making my traditional Thanksgiving menu seemed unexciting and filled me with a sense of dread. In addition, with house guests and many meals needing to be made, filling my fridge space with an entire turkey seemed inconvenient and counterproductive. Instead, I threw caution to the wind and made an entire Southwestern Thanksgiving menu courtesy of Canyon Cafe: Bringing the Southwest Experience Home. (One of my favorite cookbooks ever!)

This incredibly unforgettable menu is as follows:

• Sunburst Squash Soup - a velvety squash soup enhanced with cinnamon, nutmeg, and cumin.
• Warm Green Bean and Mushroom Salad with Roasted Garlic Bleu Cheese Vinaigrette - delicious on its own, but didn't seem cohesive with the rest of the meal. I recommend making Toasted-Pecan Green Beans as a side instead.
• Stuffed Turkey Rolls with Poblano Cornbread-Chorizo Stuffing and Pecan Mole Sauce - turkey tenderloins marinated in a white wine-Dijon marinade rolled around a fantastic chorizo-poblano stuffing and served with a simple yet delicious pecan mole sauce.
• Cranberry-Jalapeno Chutney - an exciting chutney with cranberries, jalapenos, and ginger.
• Smashed Candied Sweet Potatoes - roasted sweet potatoes seasoned with chile powder and honey.
• Pumpkin Creme Brulee - a decadent pumpkin creme brulee served with fresh raspberries.

My guests and I were so enchanted by the menu that I am doing it again this year (minus the green bean salad)! Check back for the rest of these wonderful recipes for a Thanksgiving that is anything but boring!

Sunburst Squash Soup

Serves 6

Ingredients:

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 pound yellow onions, diced

3 pounds butternut squash, peeled and cubed

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons salt (or to taste)

1 1/2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock

1 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons butter

Your favorite green and red bottle hot sauces (I use El Yucateco brand.)

Directions:

Heat the oil in a soup pot and saute onions until translucent. Do not brown, Add squash cubes and spices, toss to coat. Add stock, bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer. Cover and cook just until tender. Strain and reserve stock.

In a food processor or with a hand mixer, puree soup with enough stock to make a medium-thick soup. Return to soup pot. Add cream and stir to heat well. Add butter and adjust seasonings if necessary. Keep on low-do not allow to boil from this point. If it gets too hot the soup may separate.

Serve dotted with your favorite green and red bottled hot sauces pulled out from the center to form a sunburst.

Chicken Soup for the Soul

I know we've all seen these books by Jack Canfield. In fact, there are some titles you may have never heard of, such as: Chicken Soup for the Soul: NASCAR, Chicken Soup for the American Idol Soul (forward by Paula Abdul), and the beloved classic, Chicken Soup for the Soul: Menopause. Really? Well, no need to let your mascara run...make this instead: Chicken Tortilla Soup. This is a delicious, heartfelt soup made from the simplest of ingredients to create a truly soul-satisfying meal in a bowl.

Chicken Tortilla Soup

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For the soup:

1 tablespoon canola oil

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons tomato paste

4 chicken thighs (skin removed)

Kosher salt

8 cups low-sodium chicken broth, store-bought or homemade

12, 2-inch stems fresh cilantro (save the leaves for the garnish)

1 1/2 cup fresh tomato, seeded and diced

1 cup corn kernels (fresh, canned, or frozen-thawed)

1 cup canned black beans, rinsed and drained

For the garnish:

2 ripe avocados, diced and tossed with a squeeze of lime juice

1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco (this is the best if you can find it), feta, or ricotta salata cheese

4 dollops of sour cream

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Lime wedges for serving

For the crispy tortilla strips: (If you're too lazy, you can buy them, but it's better to make them!)

6, 6-inch fresh corn tortillas

1/2-1 cup canola oil for frying

Directions:

For the soup:

Heat the oil in a large saucepan or soup pot over medium heat.  Add the onion and cook until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes.  Add the chili powder and tomato paste and stir with a wooden spoon to mix and cook briefly; take care not to let the chili powder scorch.

Season the chicken thighs lightly with salt and nestle them in the tomato-chili paste, turning them once so they're entirely coated.  Add about 1 cup of the broth and adjust the heat to a simmer.  Cover and cook the chicken, turning once, until it's extremely tender when pierced with a knife, 30 to 40 minutes.  Add a little more broth if the pan starts to dry out. (It probably won't.)  When the chicken is done, remove it from the pan, let it cool a bit, and then cut or shred it into bite-size pieces, discarding the bones, bits of fat, or gristle.   Set the chicken aside.

If there is any visible grease in the pan, spoon it off, like so:

Add the remaining broth and the cilantro stems and stir. Simmer, uncovered, until the broth is reduced by about one third, 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the tortilla strips.

For the crispy tortilla strips:

Cut the tortillas into 1/4-inch-wide strips.  Line a plate with paper towels.  In a small high-sided saucepan, heat about 1-inch of the oil over medium heat.  When it reaches 375 degrees, or when a strip of tortilla sizzles immediately when dipped in the oil, add 6 to 8 tortilla strips.  Fry until the strips aren't bubbling much and are pale brown, about 1 minute.  Using tongs, transfer to the paper towels to drain.  Repeat with the remaining tortilla strips.

To serve:

Divide the shredded chicken, tomato, corn, and black beans into 4 large soup bowls. (I just add the chicken, tomato, corn, and black beans into the soup to make sure they are warm!)  Reheat the broth, if necessary, so it's piping hot and pour into each bowl. Garnish with the avocado, cheese, sour cream, chopped cilantro, the crispy tortilla strips, and a lime wedge to squeeze over the soup at the table. This is chicken soup for the soul!

Adapted from Martha Holmberg's recipe from Fine Cooking.

Aztec Chocolate Skulls

The cacao tree, which yields the berries, or "beans," that are the basis of chocolate, first appeared somewhere between Mexico and South America; but, the processing and culinary use of cacao was first developed in what is now Mexico. Mexican chocolate (which also refers to the foamy drink) is the round, flat disks of cinnamon-scented chocolate. The word "cacao" can be traced back to the Olmec inhabitants of Tabasco, Chiapas, Veracruz, and parts of Central America, and was passed on to the lowland Maya who succeeded them in this territory. The Maya, who flourished for eight centuries before the Spanish arrived, used their beloved chocolate in rituals such as wedding ceremonies. The Aztecs, who later came to dominate central Mexico, believed that chocolate symbolized power and glory, and used it as part of their rituals by giving the drink to human offerings in order to bless the sacrifice. Creepy! 

With Halloween and Day of the Dead almost here, I wanted to share this delightfully spooky, super easy recipe for "Aztec Chocolate Skulls." I used commercially available silicone skull molds (mine were made by Wilton and designated for ice cubes), Ibarra Mexican chocolate, milk chocolate chips, rice krispies, and edible gold flakes (purchased from Sur la Table). The combination makes an exotically delicious treat, perfect for the Aztec Gods! 

Aztec Chocolate Skulls

Makes 15 skulls, depending on the size of your mold.

Ingredients:

1 disk Ibarra Mexican chocolate

5 ounces milk chocolate chips

1/2 cup rice krispies

Edible gold flakes (optional)

Directions:

Sprinkle the mold with gold flakes, set aside. Bash the disk of Ibarra (still in it's package) against a cutting board, to break it up a bit. (It's hard as a rock!) Open the package, and drop the Ibarra and half the milk chocolate chips into a bowl placed over a pan of simmering water. (See Gadgets, for "No Double Boiler?") 

With a spoon, keep turning and squashing the chunks of Ibarra until it is completely softened and mixed with the milk chocolate. 

Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining milk chocolate until completely melted. Stir in the rice krispies. With a spoon, spoon the chocolate evenly in the mold, pressing down with your fingers.

Refrigerate until set, about 2 hours. Pop them out of their molds and serve! (Best served at room temperature.)

Thanks to Karen Hursh Graber for the background on Mexican chocolate via Mexconnect.

Confessions of a Cookbook Junkie

I wasn't looking for another cookbook...I already have a bookshelf full...but...I just happened by a bargain book bin and just had to take a peek! There it was, laying right on top, my newest resident to join my cookbook microcosm: edible: a celebration of local foods, by Tracey Ryder and Carole Topalian (cofounders of Edible Communities Publications)! Edible Communities, Inc., is a publishing and information services company that creates community-based, local-foods publications in distinct culinary regions throughout the United States and Canada, concentrating, of course, on eating local and seasonally. I was immediately drawn to this book because three-quarters of it focuses on stories about local farmers, fishermen, distillers, wine-makers, ranchers, butchers, chefs, and artisans dedicated to creating the best quality products utilizing local and seasonal ingredients. The remainder of the book provides a modest seasonal recipe collection. So, it's really more of a book than a cookbook...right?

Perhaps it was guilt that prodded me to make my purchase, I have two kids, a husband, a house to take care of, a garden to try to manage, etc....a real life. I don't always have the pleasure to eat only local fresh ingredients. As long as I can get my beloved harticot verts from Guatemala, I'm happy. I honestly don't have the time to think about where they come from, I'm just happy they're available. However, maybe I do care... After all, this year I'm growing tomatoes in large pots that are overtaking my deck, zucchini stuffed into the very corner of my yard, apples in espalier form, poblanos snuggled next to my basil and lavender, and my very own harticot verts happily swaying in the breeze! (Take that, Guatemala!) Apparently, I do like to know where my food comes from! So, this month, in an attempt to join the "movement," I am dedicating Dinner Night to my favorite seasonal recipes that utilize and enhance the bounty of the season, either from my garden or local providers!

My first recipe, courtesy of Edible Cape Cod, is for a fantastic "Grilled Chicken and Peaches with Caramelized Onions and Goat Cheese!" Seriously, this is one of the best new recipes I've tried this summer! It is so satisfying with it's simple grilled chicken breasts, peaches macerated in Cognac and grilled, served on a bed of baby lettuce and goat cheese medallions, then topped with caramelized onions and a drizzle of honey! The creative combination of flavors is surprisingly delicious! I served it with a bottle of Barton & Guestier Vouvray 2011 (***see note below) and was absolutely thrilled! You have to try it!

Grilled Chicken and Peaches with Caramelized Onions and Goat Cheese

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For the Caramelized Onions

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced

1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more if needed

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more if needed

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

For the Grilled Chicken and Peaches

2 medium peaches, peeled, pitted, and halved (You better use local, if available!)

1/4 cup good brandy, such as cognac, optional

3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (get fresh ones from your butcher, not the previously frozen abominations they sell already packaged...remember, it's all about fresh here!) 

For the Goat Cheese and Greens

2 cups local young mixed salad greens

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, optional

1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more if needed

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more if needed

2 tablespoons liquid honey

1 goat cheese log (12 ounces) (I used 8 ounces and it was plenty), sliced into 12 equal rounds (Use unflavored dental floss to cut the goat cheese, it's brilliant!)

Directions:

For the Caramelized Onions

In a large saute pan, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. When the butter stops foaming, add the onions, salt, and pepper. Stir well and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover the pan and cook the onions, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Remove the cover from the pan. Stir in the brown sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are a deep golden brown, 30 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Place the onions into a bowl; set aside.

For the Grilled Chicken and Peaches

If using the brandy, while the onions are cooking, place the peaches and brandy into a large bowl; toss well to combine. Preheat a gas grill on medium heat or prepare a moderately hot charcoal fire. Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper evenly over both sides of the chicken breasts. Lightly grease the grill rack. (I just drizzled a little olive oil over the chicken breasts instead.) Place the chicken breasts on the rack and cook for 5 minutes. Turn each breast over and cook until the chicken is no longer pink inside, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the chicken to a plate, tent the plate lightly with foil, and allow the chicken to rest for 5 minutes.

Remove the peaches from the brandy and pat dry with paper towels. Place the peaches cut-side down on the grill. Grill until browned, about 5 minutes. Remove the peaches from the grill. Sprinkle the grilled side of each peach half with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper; set aside.

For the Goat Cheese and Greens

In a medium bowl, toss together the salad greens, oil, lemon juice, if using, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Plating the Dish

Place equal portions of the salad greens on 4 plates. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the honey evenly over the greens. Place 3 slices of goat cheese over the greens on each plate. Slice the chicken breasts on the diagonal, keeping the slices from each breast together. Fan each chicken breast over the greens and cheese on each plate. Scatter the caramelized onions evenly over the chicken. Place the peach halves grilled-side up next to the chicken and greens. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of honey evenly over the components on each plate. Sprinkle each plate with a pinch each of salt and pepper, if desired.

(The perfect bite!)

*** I strongly recommend a bottle of Barton & Guestier (aka., B&G) Vouvray Chenin Blanc 2011 to serve with this dish. It's floral notes, peach and pear flavors go very nicely and it's not expensive!

Cherokee Legend, and How Strawberries Can Save Your Marriage!

As today is the first day of summer, I want to share the Cherokee Legend of the Strawberry:

The story goes that First Man and First Woman had an argument, in which the First Woman ran away, never to return. After First Man's temper calmed, he began to worry and miss First Woman. First Man prayed to Creator to give her something to eat and to slow her down, so he could tell her how sorry he was. Creator placed a patch of blackberries along her path, but the briars tore at her soft skin, and she continued to run away.

First Man prayed to Creator again to give her something to eat and to slow her down, so he could tell her how much he loved her. Creator reached down and picked the most delicate white flowers and some berries, in which he pricked his finger on the thorns. Drops of blood turned the berries large, bright red, and heart-shaped. He then placed the white flowers and berries along First Woman's path. 

When First Woman saw the delicate flowers and bright red berries, she stopped to enjoy their beauty. As she saw no thorns, she tasted one of the berries. They were so sweet that she stopped to eat more. She saw that the berries were heart-shaped and began to think of the sweet things First Man had done for her in the past. She began looking at the pure white flowers and began to remember how pure her love for First Man had been, and began to cry. She began to pray to Creator to bring her husband to her, so she could tell him how sorry she was and how much she loved him. Her husband appeared and they hugged, exchanged loving words, and forgave each other. 

This is why the Cherokee always have fresh whole strawberries, jam, and pictures in their home to remind them not to argue with one another. Their heart-shape reminds them that if they do slip and say something hurtful, to pray, ask for forgiveness, and say loving words, just like First Man and First Woman.

So, there you have it, strawberries make a happy marriage! Why not run out and pick up a bunch today, eat them whole, like First Man and First Woman, or do what I do, make Thomas Keller's "Strawberry Sorbet," from his cookbook, Bouchon. This luscious strawberry sorbet is so easy and just as satisfying as ice cream, but without any guilt! Keller suggests serving this sorbet simply, in a bowl with no garnish. It's pure perfection, and the perfect way to start your summer!

Bouchon Strawberry Sorbet

Makes about 1 quart.

Ingredients:

2 pounds fresh strawberries

1 1/4 cups sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Directions:

Combine the strawberries, sugar, and lime juice in a blender and blend to a puree. Strain to remove the seeds. Refrigerate until cold.

Transfer to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Special thanks to Bonita Beautiful Meadowlark Sanders for sharing the "Cherokee Legend of the Strawberry!"

The Pastry War, Maximilian, and the History of French-Mexican Cuisine

In 2010, The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) listed traditional French and Mexican cuisines on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This is the first time that a nation's cuisine has made the list. While any good foodie knows the immense importance of French cuisine, I am glad that Mexican cuisine is finally getting it's due! Mexican cuisine, built on a foundation of corn, beans, and chili peppers, is a fusion of indigenous Mesoamerican and European cuisines (especially Spanish) following the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire in the early 1500s. But did you know that the French have influence as well? 

Following Mexico's independence from Spain (1810-1821), in which immigration was previously prohibited by Spanish authorities, the first wave of French immigrants arrived in Veracruz in the 1830s. At the time, the Mexican economy was weak and had many loans from France and were default on all of them! Many incidences of French immigrants losing their lives and/or property due to inebriated Mexican officials and criminals occurred. After a report by restaurant owner Monsieur Remontel that an assault on his pastry supply valued at 60,000 pesos had occurred, the French demanded 600,000 pesos for alleged losses of property. Mexico refused to pay. So, in 1838 a French fleet began a blockade of Mexico's east coast seaports, launching war. French troops invaded Veracruz and defeated the Mexican troops. After British intervention, Mexico finally agreed to pay the 600,000 pesos thus ending the war. This little known page from Mexico's history was dubbed by a French journalist as "The Pastry War."

Thirty years later, in July of 1861, Mexico's President Benito Jaurez suspended interest payments to all foreign countries, angering their major creditors, specifically Spain, France, and Britain. Napoleon wanted military intervention in order to ensure European access to Latin American markets. On October 31, the three European powers signed the Treaty of London to unite their efforts to receive payments from Mexico. On December 8, British, Spanish, and French fleets arrived in Veracruz. However, when the British and Spanish realized that France planned to seize all of Mexico (known as The French Intervention in Mexico), they quickly withdrew. The French fought many battles with Mexican troops, including their defeat in the Battle of Puebla in 1862, becoming the Cinco de Mayo holiday we love today. With more and more French troops arriving, they finally seized the capital. In 1863, backed by Napoleon, Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian (Emperor Maximiliano of Mexico) was proclaimed Emperor of Mexico. In 1864, the new emperor along with his wife Princess Charlotte of Belgium (Empress Carlota of Mexico), arrived in Veracruz to "wild enthusiasm" from the crowds. 

Maximilian and Carlota chose their seat in Mexico City and were known for lavish feasts morning, noon, and night. Upon Carlota's insistence, French cuisine was always on the menu. Following the Emperor and Empress, French cuisine was embraced by the upper classes, promoting "la comida afrancescada" or "Frenchified cooking." Unfortunately for Maximilian and Carlota, their reign did not last long. After the end of the American Civil War, the US increased diplomatic pressure to persuade Napoleon to end support of Maximilian and withdraw French troops, which he did in 1866. Carlota fled to Europe to seek assistance for her husband where she had a nervous breakdown and lived the rest of her life in seclusion, perhaps in a mental facility in Belgium. Maximilian was executed in Mexico on June 19, 1867. 

During the years that followed, French influences permeated Mexican cuisine, incorporating French terms and sauces to the Mexican culinary repertoire. In addition, native ingredients worked exceedingly well with French techniques. Although many may believe these dishes are new to Mexican cuisine, they are actually offshoots of the French-Mexican culinary fusion of the 19th century! Today, it is estimated that there are approximately 10,000 French Mexicans in the state of Veracruz alone! If you are at all interested in the fusion of French-Mexican cuisine, or would like a sophisticated take on the flavors of Mexico with a French twist, I strongly recommend making "Mushroom Crepes with Poblano Cream Sauce!" It is so absolutely delicious! As this recipe incorporates French and Mexican techniques (both of which can be time-consuming), plan to make some of the parts ahead of time, e.g., crepes and sauce a day or two in advance. I promise you'll love it! Vive la France! Viva la Mexico!

Mushroom Crepes with Poblano Cream Sauce

Serves 6

Ingredients:

For the crepes

2 cups whole milk

3 large eggs

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, cooled

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 cups sifted all purpose flour

Additional melted butter, for cooking the crepes

For the sauce

6 large poblano chiles (For more on poblanos, see For the Love of Poblanos!)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup chopped white onion

1 small garlic clove, minced

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups warm whole milk

1/2 cup fresh whipping cream

1 cup coarsely grated queso manchego, Muenster cheese (about 4 ounces)

3 tablespoons canola oil

1/2 fresh corn kernels (if not available, use frozen or even can)

Fresh cilantro sprigs, for garnish

For the mushroom filling

1/3 cup canola oil

2 cups white onions, chopped

1 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps thinly sliced (a combination of wild mushrooms works very well here, but remember to never eat the shiitake stems - they are too tough!)

2 tablespoons minced epazote or fresh cilantro

4 teaspoons minced garlic

Directions:

For the crepes (Can be made 2 days ahead, wrap, and chill.)

Blend milk, eggs, 2 tablespoons melted butter, and salt in blender 5 seconds. Add flour, 1/2 cup at a time, blending batter until smooth after each addition. Let rest 1-2 hours. Reblend batter 5 seconds before using.

Heat a nonstick skillet or crepe pan (see Gadgets) over medium-high heat until hot. Coat the pan lightly with butter and pour in about 1/4 cup of the batter. Lift the pan from the heat, tilting and rotating, to allow the batter to spread evenly. Return the pan to the heat and allow to cook until dry on top and lightly browned on the edges. Loosen the edges with a plastic or rubber spatula and flip the crepe over using your fingers or spatula, then cook the other side for about 15 seconds, or until lightly browned. (For pictures, see Crazy Crepe Man!) Remove the crepe to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter, stacking the crepes as they are cooked.

For the sauce (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Whisk over medium heat until just warm before continuing.)

Char chiles directly over gas flame or in broiler until blackened on all sides. Enclose in paper bag or bowl covered in plastic wrap for 10 minutes. Peel, seed, and thinly slice chiles. Set aside. (See Techniques)

Melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion; saute until soft, about 2 minutes. Add garlic; stir 30 seconds. Whisk in flour and continue to cook 1 minute. Whisk in warm milk and bring to boil, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until sauce thickens, whisking occasionally, about 5 minutes. Pour sauce into blender. Add cream and half of roasted chiles (reserve remaining chiles for garnish). Blend sauce until smooth. Season with salt (at least 1 tsp or so) and pepper. Set aside.

For the mushroom filling

Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms, epazote or cilantro, and garlic. Saute until mushrooms are brown and mushroom liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Finishing the dish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush a baking sheet with some canola oil or line with parchment. Arrange 1 crepe, brown spots up, on work surface. Place 2 packed tablespoons filling in the center. Fold crepe in half, then half again, forming a triangle. Place filled crepe on prepared sheet. Repeat with the remaining crepes until filling is gone. (Can be filled and folded 1 day ahead. Cover and chill until ready to use.)

Pour 1/4 cup sauce into the center of 6 ovenproof plates. Top each with 2 filled crepes. Pour 1/4 cup sauce over. Sprinkle evenly with the cheese. Bake until the cheese melts, about 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons canola oil in heavy medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add reserved poblano chiles and corn; saute until heated through, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with salt.

Garnish crepes with sauteed chiles and corn, then cilantro sprigs, and serve. Mmmmm!

Recipe adapted from Bon Appetit and Mexconnect.com.

Eat Like an Empress! (or Emperor)

"Crab imperial" is a classic American dish popular along the east coast. Although it's not the healthiest of dishes, it is luxurious and I love it! The original crab imperial was created in the late 19th century at Thompson's Sea Girt House, located in Baltimore, Maryland. It was a gratin of back-fin lump crab in a mixture of diced onions, green bell pepper, and pimiento, all bound together in a thick cream sauce (bechamel) and topped with a slather of mayonnaise. This version remained very popular until the opening of Crisfield's Seafood Restaurant in Silver Spring, Maryland in 1945. It was then that Lillian Landis (matriarch of the family) created Crisfield's version, called "Imperial Crab," which remains popular to this day. After Lillian complained that the original version of crab imperial was too heavy and that the other ingredients masked the gently sweet flavor of the crab, she created her version which consists of back-fin lump crab lightly bound together with Hellman's mayonnaise, flecked with minced green bell pepper, minced onion, and a topping of fresh bread crumbs. Although I have yet to visit Crisfield's, I plan on popping in the next time I'm in the area to check out the old-timey decor and try their Imperial Crab. FYI: I've heard their crab cakes are awful, referred to as tasting like sawdust!

Until then, I can always make my own version of crab imperial! Like Crisfield's, I like the crab meat to be the star, so I don't use green bell pepper, pimiento, or even add any onion. Instead, I gently fold together the crab with a seasoned mixture of Hellman's mayonnaise and spices, then instead of stuffing the mixture into crab shells or baking dishes, I mound the mixture on large portobello mushroom caps, top each with buttered bread crumbs and bake until golden. Delicious! I serve each with a lemon wedge and a small spinach salad on the side. (A glass of Champagne is also nice!) The result is a simple and luscious meal that, thanks to the portobello and spinach, somehow seems healthier and more modern. This is an excellent recipe for company, to be reserved only for people you really like!

Crab Imperial Stuffed Portobellos with Spinach Salad

Serves 4
*This recipe can easily be halved to make a romantic dinner for 2. Prepare for kisses!*

Ingredients:
For the Crab Imperial

1 pound jumbo lump crab meat, picked over for any shells or cartilage

1/2 cup Hellman's mayonnaise

1 large egg

1 teaspoon Sherry wine

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper sauce (e.g., Tabasco)

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard (e.g., Grey Poupon)

1/2 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1/4 cup minced Italian flat leaf parsley

1/4 cup bread crumbs

Melted butter, about 1 tablespoon or enough to moisten the bread crumbs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season breadcrumbs

Paprika, to sprinkle on top

For the Portobellos, Salad, and Serving
4 large portobello mushroom caps, 4-5 inches in diameter
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle on mushrooms
12 ounces baby spinach, tough stems removed
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 lemon, cut in wedges

Directions:
For the Crab Imperial
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, egg, Sherry, cayenne pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, Old Bay Seasoning, flour, and parsley until smooth. With a spatula, carefully fold in the crab meat, trying not to break up the pieces. Set aside.

In a small bowl, mix together the bread crumbs and melted butter. (I find the back of a spoon very efficient to help smoosh it together.)  Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

For the Portobellos
Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil or parchment paper. Place each portobello cap, stem side up, on the baking sheet and drizzle with some olive oil and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper.

Top each evenly with the crab imperial mixture. Sprinkle each stuffed portobello with some of the moistened bread crumbs. (Use as much or as little as you prefer, but remember not to let it taste like sawdust!) Sprinkle the tops with paprika, to give it some color and extra flavor.

Bake for 25-30 minutes until golden and bubbly. Remove and let sit for a few minutes before serving. It's hot!

For the Salad and Serving
Whisk together the tablespoon of lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss enough of the dressing to lightly coat the spinach leaves.

Place one stuffed portobello on each of four serving plates. Divide the salad evenly next to the stuffed portobellos. Add a lemon wedge and prepare for an excellent dining experience!